mn

Estancia Von Zillenstein ligt op de Argentijnse Pampa. Hier, temidden van grazende kuddes en wat maté drinkende gauchos, zijn mijn belevenissen uit El Sur del Sur, het meest zuidelijk gelegen land op aarde, terug te vinden.

Thursday, September 27, 2007

Godfather beroofd

Hopelijk is nu eindelijk het moment gekomen dat de overheid wat aan de misdaadgolf hier gaat doen. Gisteravond is het huis/kantoor van Francis Ford Coppola in Buenos Aires door dieven overvallen, met een gewonde tot gevolg. Gewapende overvallers braken in in zijn huis in de wijk Palermo en hebben onder andere zijn computer meegenomen waar het voorbereidend werk voor zijn nieuwste film opzat. De regisseur van de Godfather-reeks was zelf niet thuis, maar zijn medewerkers zijn met wapens bedreigd. Eén van zijn assistenten is met een mes aangevallen en moest in een ziekenhuis worden opgenomen, maar werd na een snelle behandeling weer ontslagen. De overvallers hebben naast computers ook videocameras's en digitale camera's meegenomen uit het huis, dat ook dienst doet als productiekantoor.

Volgens medewerkers van Coppola is de regisseur "heel bedroefd" na de overval. Ze hebben de dieven gesmeekt om alsjeblieft de computer van de beroemde regisseur terug te geven, want daar zit al zijn "creatief werk" op. Ook overwegen ze een beloning te betalen als de dieven de spullen teruggeven.

Coppola is regelmatig in Buenos Aires. Hij heeft hier een productiebedrijf en een trendy hotel. In februari volgend jaar zou hij beginnen met de opname van zijn nieuwe film Tetro met in de hoofdrollen Javier Bardem en Matt Dillon.

Sunday, September 23, 2007

Herendiner


Deze promo foto ontving ik vandaag op de krant. Het zijn de drie meest populaire vrouwen van Argentinië aan één tafel. Rechts, de ster van duizend en een revue shows, Florencia de la Vega. In het midden de grande dame van de Argentijnse televisie, Mirtha Legrand en links de nationale sexbom en koningin van de toyboys, Moria Casan.
De vraag is, wie van de drie kan er staand plassen? Ik hoor het wel.

Friday, September 21, 2007

Correa in 't land

Rafael Correa, de jonge (45) president van Ecuador was vrijdag hier op bezoek. De Moeders van de Plaza de Mayo hadden hem uitgenodigd voor een praatje. Mariella en ik zijn samen met een paar honderd andere Ecuadoriaanse studenten er heen getogen.

Praten kan Correa wel. De voormalige hoogleraar economie moet de populairste docent van Quito zijn geweest. In 25 minuten zette hij de economische crisis van zijn land in een moord tempo uiteen. Iedereen begreep het en niemand kon het navertellen. Behalve de grappen dan.

Correa heeft in de VS en Leuven gestudeerd en heeft een Belgische vrouw. Hij is diep gelovig, houdt van feesten, spreekt Kichwa en vat kritiek nogal persoonlijk op. Hij is aan de macht gekomen met de belofte het land van de grond af opnieuw op te richten en het "Socialisme van de 21ste eeuw" te implementeren. Een exponent, dus, van dit links-nationalistische gedachtegoed dat Latijns-Amerika van Argentinië tot Venezuela bezighoudt. Een van de breinen achter deze theorie is de in Mexico docerende Duitser Hanz Dieterich. Collega Marcel Haenen van het NRC zocht hem net op.

Thursday, September 13, 2007

Guaraní Inferno

Het begint nu pas tot me door te dringen dat Paraguay met de ergste bosbranden in zijn geschiedenis kampt. De branden zijn al drie weken bezig en de krant ABC Color meldt dat al ongeveer 500.000 hectaren verloren zijn gegaan. Het aantal doden wordt geschat op 300. Mbaracayú, het belangrijkste natuur reservaat van Paraguay staat ook al in brand. Dat kan het einde betekenen van het leefgebied van vele bedreigde diersoorten en ook van enkele indianen stammen.

Om de bosbranden te lijf te gaan heeft de VS 50 duizend dollar gestuurd. Venezuela stuurt het Russische blusvliegtuig Ilyushin-76, de grootste ter wereld, met het vermogen 41 duizend liter per vlucht te vervoeren. Hetzelfde ding is ook in Griekenland gebruikt. De kosten van het huren zijn 1 miljoen dollar. (Irak is niet de enige plek waar Bush het gevecht om de 'hearts and minds' aan het verliezen is...)


De voornaamste oorzaak schijnt de verschrikkelijke droogte te zijn. Tel daarbij op de gewoonte van veel arme gemeenschappen om hun vuil te branden, Paraguay's tragische infrastructuur, log ambtenaren apparaat en corrupte regering en je hebt alle ingrediënten voor een ramp. Ik ga morgen bellen om uit te zoeken hoe het zit met de economische schade.

Wednesday, September 12, 2007

Democracy under siege in Guatemala


Guatemala celebrated its sixth consecutive presidential election on Sunday since the return to democracy in 1986. Centre-left candidate Alvaro Colom, who headed the polls throughout, beat his main rival former general Otto Pérez Molina by four percent of the vote. Despite the victory, Colom failed to get the support of more than half the electorate and so faces Molina again on November 4 for a second round of voting.

The voting transpired with such calm that Diego García-Sayán, Peruvian observer for the OAS, insisted there was a state of “tranquility across the width and length of the country.” The burning of at least seven urns in Santa Rosa province and evidence of vote buying elsewhere were put down to ‘incidents.’ Despite the relative calm, Guatemala is still a long way off from calling itself a stable democracy. Election participation was down, election related violence was not. Both are cause for concern.

First of all the turnout – 58 percent – was worryingly low for a country where voting is compulsory. Bad weather is a possible explanation. Hurricane Felix hit Guatemala hard at the beginning of last week, leaving around 5000 families homeless. Heavy rains persisted over the weekend, turning dirt roads into barely navigable lanes of mud.

Lousy weather, however, doesn’t tell us why more than 20 percent of those who should be registered to vote, aren’t, making the real turnout even lower. Carlos Cabrera, who runs the blog EleccionesGuatemala.com puts it to a lack of civic culture. Many Guatemalans, he says, don’t care for politics or simply feel that their vote doesn’t count.

If they did, maybe Nobel peace laureate Rigoberta Menchu would have more than 3 percent of the vote. In a country where two thirds of the population belong to an indigenous community and where racism is rampant, the only candidate of Mayan descent was left in sixth place. That’s a staggering defeat for someone who theoretically could be the Central American equivalent to Nelson Mandela. Menchu’s problem, say some commentators, is she sounds more like an NGO spokeswoman than a presidential candidate. The real reason though, may be the fact that Rigoberta is not perceived as tough on crime in a country where violence is a daily affair.

Violence is also the main reason not to place too much importance on a calm day of voting. The killings, which preceded it, were simply horrific. Over the past 15 months more than 50 murders of candidates, their supporters and relatives have been linked to the elections. Take, for instance, the case of Armando Sanchez. A candidate for Guatemala’s Congress, he told the Washington Post he attended seven funerals in six months. All of them candidates or political workers. Hector Montenegro, another congressional candidate, sorely misses his 15-year old daughter. Three weeks ago, her throat was slit before she was stuffed into the trunk of a taxi.

Most of those killings can be put down to the drug cartels way of reminding voters and candidates that they are also stake-holders in the country’s future. It’s part of a pattern. Last year saw 6000 murders in Guatemala. This year the killings include the gunning down of three El Salvadorian lawmakers and their driver along a remote highway, followed by the brutal murder of the four policemen accused of the killings in the very police cell where they were being detained.

The cartels are waging a battle for control over Guatemala’s institutions. Helen Mack, a human rights activist, insists they have infiltrated political parties. Along the border with Mexico drug money finances candidates, irrespective of their ideological outlook, in a bid to ensure a free run of the frontier zone. They build landing strips, plant opium and marijuana and run the place like feudal overlords, holding their puppet mayors by the strings. The drugs, mostly cocaine originating in South America, are destined for the US market.

Ironically, it was the silent will of US consumers that first sent Guatemala into turmoil over 50 years ago. In June 1954 American bomber pilots backed an invasion masterminded by the CIA. The aim, to topple an elected government threatening the interests of the United Fruit Company. What followed was a series of military dictatorships and a civil war, which lasted until 1996. Over 200,000 people are estimated to have died during the conflict.

This time round things are a little different. The current president, Oscar Berger, is a firm ally of the Bush administration. He even went so far as to send troops to Iraq. In return Bush confirmed his intention to help the country fight crime during a visit in March of this year. Hopefully, that intention will materialize and Guatemala can expect some of the same assistance Colombia and now Mexico receive. Because as long as violence and intimidation continue, the kind of civic culture needed to bolster democracy is unlikely to take root in Guatemala.

Latam Watch for the Buenos Aires Herald

Wednesday, September 05, 2007

Kiwi FM


My career has taken another unexpected twist. I'm now a regular guest on the Wallace Chapman Breakfast show on Kiwi FM, a national station in... You guessed it! I took over the slot from a Kiwi friend who went back to New Zealand. You can hear me every Tuesday or Wednesday, depending in which part of the world you're in. You can also download the podcasts are here.

Tuesday, September 04, 2007

PIT the Columnist

As of last week I've been asked to write the weekly Lat-Am Watch column for the Buenos Aires Herald. The column is intended to present the readers with an analysis of important developments in the region. The Herald website doesn't allow full access to its columns, but luckily this blog does. I'll be publishing them here every Tuesday.

Chávez to the rescue?

Throwing his weight around in the region by treating his neighbours to everything from Cuban doctors to Carnival floats has been one of the more high profile traits of Hugo Chávez rule in Venezuela. But for the first time in long while he seems to have stumbled on a worthy cause.
About a fortnight ago he offered to mediate in Latin America’s longest running guerrilla insurgency in Colombia. That offer was welcomed by the FARC-guerrilla, whose spokesman Raul Reyes said last week that Chávez participation would give negotiations a “new impulse.” On Friday Chávez and President Alvaro Uribe spoke for over seven hours working on details of a plan to bring about a deal between the government and the 17,000 strong guerrilla organization.


After the talks Chávez announced that he had invited a FARC- envoy to Venezuela to negotiate a potential exchange between the guerrilla hostages and jailed insurgents.
Chávez said he hoped that envoy would be Manuel Marulanda Vélez, the guerrilla commander, alias “Sureshot.” During his weekly television show on Sunday he repeated his invitation to the 77-year old insurgency leader to meet. “Person to person,” as he put it in English, using his typically Venezuelan spanglish vernacular.

The aim of the negotiations is clear enough. The release of 45 hostages being held by the FARC, including former Colombian presidential candidate Ingrid Betancourt, three U.S. military contractors and Colombian soldiers and police. In return the guerrilla group demands the release of hundreds of its troops.

Should Chávez manage to broker a deal, it would make something of a Latin Kofi Anan. He would be succeeding where the French, the Spanish, the Swiss and the Catholic Church had failed. That’s because dealing with the FARC is a tricky business.

Chávez had proposed the prisoner exchange take place on Venezuelan soil, but the FARC spokesman Reyes ruled out that suggestion. He insists they are willing to negotiate, but only if a demilitarized zone is provided by the Colombian government. The FARC have had their eye on the municipalities Predera and Florida in the southwestern department of Valle for a long time. Reyes repeated the group’s demand to turn the localities into a so-called despeje for the duration of 45 days, saying it was not much to ask.

The Uribe administration disagree. His government has been loath to relinquish any territory. On principle, but also on the basis of past experience. A similar experiment by former president Pastrana in 1998 ended in the FARC using the terrain to strengthen itself and carry out attacks on the neighbouring area. The interior minister, Carlos Holguín, flatly declined any possibility of a despeje but said the government was open to alternatives. Now it’s up to Hugo Chávez to work out a compromise.

Hostage brokering is not the only difficult piece of negotiating that Chávez is applying his newfound diplomatic skills to. Fearing Venezuela may eventually be blackballed from Latin America’s most prosperous trade group, Mercosur, the former colonel has said he wants to re-join the Andean pact or CAN, made up of Peru, Bolivia, Colombia and Ecuador. That same Chávez left the CAN in a huff in May last year, claiming the organisation was “dead”.

Soon after he showed up at the front door of Mercosur. His was initially welcomed, especially by Uruguay and Argentina, but since then his popularity has taken a turn for the worse. Brazilian legislators aren’t eager to the see Chavez join the southern cone’s union fearing he will politicise what is essentially a place where Brazil sells shoes. Recently Venezuelan bilateral relations with Argentina soured after a Venezuelan carrying 800,000 dollars in a suitcase tried to bluff his way through customs at Newbery airport. Reacting to the embarrassment it caused the Kirchner-administration, who paid for the jet the Venezuelan flew in on, local officials tried to pass the hot potato off on the Venezuelans, leading to a cool down between Chávez and Kirchner.

To make things worse, Chávez then stepped on the toes of the fourth Mercosur country, Paraguay. Anti-Chavism there was ignited last week when a newspaper reported finding a document, which it claimed proved Venezuela was trying to “infiltrate” the impoverished country. The steps set out in the paper deal mainly with instilling the ‘Bolivarian spirit’ in youth leaders and journalists and airing long television programmes about the positive side of Venezuela. The implications of this “infiltration” seem tedious rather than subversive or illegal, but in Paraguay the document caused a storm.

So now Hugo Chávez is forced to do an about face and re-join the old CAN (although he insists that with Venezuela’s participation it will become “a new CAN, the CAN of the 21st Century,” which sounds like it will get the same confusing treatment he gave to socialism.)
Venezuela’s outlook to joining the Andean pact is positive. Ecuador and Bolivia are ideological allies in the cause of reaching out to Latin America’s disenfranchised. Peru, which had its feathers ruffed by Chávez during its presidential elections has welcomed Venezuela. “Chavez has realised that to be a Bolivarian one needs to be Andean too,” was how Peruvian President Alán Garcia put it. Finally Colombia is not an obstacle, especially now that the Bolivarian has assumed the role of peace broker.

When Chávez initially left the CAN it was because he was angered over the fact that Peru and Colombia where trying to negotiate free trade deals with his professed arch enemy, the United States. For Colombia getting the deal approved hinges largely on Uribe’s prowess at convincing the Democrat majority in the US Congress that he can be trusted on Human Rights issues. The irony of the situation is that should Chávez manage to broker a deal between the FARC and the Uribe government, in doing so he’s greatly increasing the chances of that free trade deal - which he despises - coming about.